This bibliography is a collection of references to the European textiles known collectively, if misleadingly, as Perugian wares or Perugia towels. It focuses on the technical and art-historical specifics of these textiles, especially in their medieval and early Renaissance manifestations. I am indebted to Karen Walters and Stephanie Thorson for alerting me to the existence of some of these materials.
This document is a work in progress. It is provided as is without any express or implied warranties. While every effort has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information contained, the author assumes no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein.
Permission is granted to make and distribute verbatim copies of this document for non-commercial private research purposes provided the copyright notice and this permission notice are preserved on all copies. The definitive version of this work resides at http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/perugiabib.html.
© 2002, Carolyn Priest-Dorman
Bobrovsky, Ida. "Spätmittelalterliche ungarische Leinentücher mit Baumwollmusterung." Acta Historiae Artium, vol. 16, nos. 3-4 (1970), pp. 231- 259.
Two dozen plates of Perugia brocading motifs from Hungarian collections, ranging from simple geometric to elaborately figural. Most are dated to the 16th century.
Bombe, W. "Studi sulle Tovaglie Perugine: Le Figurazioni Ornamentali e Simboliche," Rassegna d'Arte Antica e Moderna (1914), pp. 108-120.
Art-historical survey of the brocading motifs of Perugia towels. Many photos; includes a typology of motifs.
Burnham, Dorothy. Warp and Weft: A Dictionary of Textile Terms. New York: Charles Scribner's Sons, 1981.
Close-up photo of a Perugia style brocaded linen from Germany circa 1500; its ground is a liseré weave in a gebrochene pattern variant.
Endrei, Walter. "Les Étoffes dites de Pérouse, leurs antécédents et leur descendance." Bulletin du CIETA, no 65 (1987), pp. 61-68.
Highly useful article touching on many important aspects of this class of textiles, including loom requirements, fiber choices, diffusion of the method, and the fustian trade. Good footnotes, a brief English summary, and a few photos.
Fanelli, Rosalia Bonito. Five Centuries of Italian Textiles: 1300-1800, A Selection from the Museo del Tessuto Prato. Prato: Cassa di Risparmi e Depositi di Prato, 1981.
Two Perugia towels with photos and catalogue entries, including thread counts.
Geijer, Agnes. A History of Textile Art: A Selective Account, corrected edition. London: Pasold Research Fund in association with Sotheby Parke Bernet, 1982 .
A close-up plate showing the brocaded section of a Perugia towel.
Gnoli, Umberto. L'Arte Umbra alla Mostra di Perugia. Collezione di Monografie Illustrate, Serie V, Raccolte d'Arte. Bergamo: Istituto Italiano d'Arti Grafiche, 1908.
A short chapter on Perugia towels and several photos including one with a fleur de lys motif.
Harris, Jennifer, ed. Textiles 5,000 Years: An International History and Illustrated Survey. London/New York: British Museum Press/Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1993.
Brief mention of Perugia wares plus a photo of two brocaded motifs.
King, Monique, and King, Donald. European Textiles in the Keir Collection 400 BC to 1800 AD. London: Faber and Faber Limited, 1990.
A photograph and brief catalogue entry on a piece of a towel. Cites related pieces in other collections, possibly parts of the same textile.
Mayer Thurman, Christa C. Textiles in the Art Institute of Chicago Chicago: The Art Institue of Chicago, 1992.
A photo of the large brocaded section of a Perugia towel.
Mazzaoui, Maureen Fennell. The Italian Cotton Industry in the Later Middle Ages 1100-1600. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1981.
Very useful, rare information on the medieval use of cotton. Provides a great context within which to situate consideration of Perugian wares; stronger on history than on technology, however.
Munro, Alianora [Thorson, Stephanie]. Perugia Towels. Compleat Anachronist, no. 114 (January 2002). Milpitas, California: The Society for Creative Anachronism.
Brief monograph, mostly an art-historical survey. Includes some drafts for ground weaves and some brocading drafts.
Morosini, Amleto. Antichi Tessuti Umbri: Tovaglie "da Mensa" dalla Collezione Morosini -- Spoleto. Spoleto: Del Gallo Editore, 1998.
A brief color catalogue of 21 towels, of which 15 are pre-1600. Several short essays including one on brocading motifs. Close-up photo of the ground weave of one towel dated to the beginning of the 16th century.
Rocchi, Mariano. "Le Tovaglie Perugine." Rassegna Marchigiana per le Arti Figurative , vol. X (December 1932), pp. 36-56.
Close-ups (with dating) of several brocade motifs. Includes a number of references to early twentieth century works on Perugia wares.
Santangelo, A. Tessuti d'Arte Italiani dal XIIo al XVIIIo Secolo. Milano: Electra Editrice, 1959.
A few columns of text and a few high-quality photos.
Thornton, Peter. The Italian Renaissance Interior, 1400-1600. New York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1991.
A very useful orientation to Italian domestic textiles, including a section on Perugian wares. Read the footnotes.
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